| The ‘dyeing’ artof Patan Patola is slowly succumbing
to the internal feuds that have been lingering on for a
long time now between the four Salvi families - the sole
custodians of this rare traditional form of silk
textile. |
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| All efforts to safeguard this 750-year-old art form
by seeking registration under the Geographical
Indications (GI) of Goods (Registration and Protection)
Act by Sristi, a local NGO with support from the
National Innovation Foundation (NIF) and IIMA students
have stuck in the middle of nowhere. |
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| Two of the four families are unwilling to join hands
for forming a brand. Anil Gupta, founder of Sristi and
IIMA professor while talking to Business Standard said,
"This can be a big loss for everybody. As per the rules
for acquiring patent, such craft cannot be protected by
one or two producers. It is a collective right and has
to be protected in that manner." |
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| All efforts to bring the four Salvi families under
one roof and brand the Patan Patola have not succeeded
in the past four years. The accomplishment of a brand
would prohibit others from faking this double 'ikat'
silk from Patan. |
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| "We have done what we could. Now it is left for the
government to intervene and solve the matter," Gupta
said. |
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| The four families are headed by Bharat Salvi, Ashok
Salvi, Kanubhai Salvi and Satish Salvi. After Vinayak
Salvi, who received several accolades including the
'Shilp Guru award' last year, passed away about a month
ago his brother Bharat has taken charge of the business.
When contacted Bharat said, "We are self sufficient and
do not need any kind of patent to exhibit our skills."
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| Bharat is at loggerheads with his cousin Ashok who
runs a separate business with six members. Ashok Salvi's
family is unwilling to join if Vadodara based Kanu Salvi
is involved. Viral Salvi, who is Ashok's nephew said,
"The kind of Patola that Kanubhai's family makes is not
real. How can we allow our quality to be compared with
theirs." |
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| "On various occasions we tried to convince the four
families and despite various attempts we have not
arrived at an amicable solution," said Hema Patel, who
is co-ordinating this project. |
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| What Indira Gandhi wore and Sonia Gandhi still
adores, is being knocked from door to door for survival.
Kanubhai Salvi, based in Vadodara, said, "We have been
doing door to door marketing from past 70-80 years but
it was mainly to exhibit our new products as our
reputation preceded us. Today, I have to go and find new
customers by visiting their homes.” |
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| The lacklustre attitude of the government is also
blamed for this, according to three Salvi families.
|
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| The Khemoo craft of Japan which is similar to Patola
survived as the government started buying all the works
that were produced at the price demanded by the
craftsmen. |
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| "Forty years ago the handicrafts department of
Gujarat did a similar job but it has been stopped from a
long time now," Kanubhai said. In order to protect the
brand one of the eight procedures has to be done at
Patan as per the GI norms. |
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| According to Gupta, this art can survive for a
maximum of 25-30 years. While some of the 'survivors'
are unwilling to pass on this legacy to their children,
others are left without any issues. The esteem that
Patola held also reflects in the folklore of Gujarat.
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| There are about 8 procedures and with the
involvement of 6-8 people, a Patola takes 2-4 months to
complete, depending on the intricacies involved in its
making. |
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| “Since each process takes about 1-1.5 years to
expertise, the new generation is not willing to accept
it as their profession. Instead they are turning towards
other professions," according to Hema. |
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| "One of the reasons for the declining popularity of
the Patola is its high price which not everyone can
afford and also the time spent for making a single
piece," Hema explained. |
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| "I will not teach this to my children this art as
there is not much left in this profession. I myself
wanted to pursue a different career but my grandfather
forbade me. The government is also doing little to save
us," Viral Salvi said.
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